Principe

This is Príncipe, the smaller of the two islands that make up the nation of São Tomé and Príncipe - one of the least visited countries in the world.The economy limps along under the weight of low wages and a long history of plantation labor and slavery, first under Portuguese rule, then in independent hardship.

Finding someone who speaks English takes time. I’m eventually introduced to a local teacher - he knows enough French and a few English phrases to make it work. I ask if he knows someone who can take me around. He calls Deiy.

Deiy, 40 years of ages, pulls up in a Suzuki Jimny, all dents and charm. We speak no common language. Still, we drive north, climbing muddy tracks carved into the hillside by rain and habit, towards Miradouro, a viewpoint high above the coastline. Below us, the sea is a sheet of grey-blue, merging into a misted horizon. Deiy points, smiles.

We stop in Nova Estrela, the village he calls home.The road network, while improving, mostly consists of washed-out earthbroken promise - his home is colorful and the lawn reminds me of Britain. He introduces me to his family and Carlos - his friend - who speaks some English, joins our outing.

The three of us drive past the airstrip on our way to Bon Bon Beach - the only flights are to São Tomé and they only happen twice a week - Fridays & Sundays. The yellow flight tower stands strong and manned, even on Thursdays.

Bon Bon Beach - a crescent of sand so pristine it feels like a mirage. The tide leaves delicate patterns on the shore, untouched by footprints. It’s the kind of place that feels borrowed from another time.

On the way back, we stop at the local watering hole in town. Beers come in recycled glass bottles, no labels, no brands. Cold, slightly bitter, and perfect.

Feeling somewhat tipsy, Deiy and Carlos take me to the “port” - a simple patch of shore with a few ropes and tires to help the boats dock. My ride back to the cruiser waits offshore. The tender boat sputters into the swell, the shoreline already folding back into the green.

Stepping back on board of the ship feels surreal and somewhat wrong. But that’s a story for another time.